Exploring more of Torres del Paine National Park

12/22/16

There are quite a few things to try and get used to in December (summer) in Torres del Paine - cold weather, winds in excess of 50 MPH, daylight from 5 AM to almost 11 PM and rain. The weather can easily be all 4 seasons in one day.  At some point, you think it is the normal dinner time because of the daylight, but then you realize your grabbing dessert and adding it to your hips around 10 at night - and that's not even adding in the many glasses of wine. 

Today's hike was in true Patagonia style - rain, incredible wind and challenging terrain.  I managed to complete most of it despite the elements, but that wet beach sand regenerative lenga took a lot out of me. We loved the box lunches the hotel provided for us since we were pretty famished at the end.

First challenge - crossing a hanging bridge in about 50 MPH winds.

Second challenge - navigating wet beach sand regenerative lenga 

while trying to battle the wind. This was a serious challenge for my ankle.

Icebergs from the glaciers.

Major iceberg spotting.

Today, we felt it incumbent to continue to honor the drinking of pisco sours during happy hour (again, "learning and discovery"), and more wine after that.  Now we've been informed that there is UNLIMITED alcohol on board the ship we'll be boarding for 4 nights Christmas Eve. I could easily get used to this type of Christmas gift every year!

Here are some great shots of the Paine Massif after lunch...

We couldn't believe how lucky we were today with the clouds clearing over the Paine Massif - allowing us to clearly see the horns and the towers of this granite/sedimentary rock formations. We even took an incredible number of photos from our hotel rooms. LA RAJA!!!! (which means "more than awesome" or "butt crack" (for some reason). Obviously this matches the first translation:)

When we returned to our hotel, about 12 of us went horseback riding through the park in 2 shifts of 6. Nicole rode twice so she could keep an eye on us and translate where needed. My horse, Palermo, copped a "tude" from the get go - insisting on eating every blade of grass he could find. Jorge, our leader, told us not to let the horses eat grass because then that's all they would want to do and we would end up going nowhere fast.  

So, Palermo acted just like a petulant child - going as slowly as possible more than halfway of the route - pouting all the way. Then, when it came time for the group photo with the Paine Massif in the background, you will notice 3 horses neatly aligned side by side, then one pouting in the background, then another 3 neatly aligned. Not only did Palermo sulk in the background, but he kept stepping backwards to the point that we almost tumbled into the river rapids!

On the way back Palermo would wait until we were going downhill to sprint right up to Connie's horse's butt, then put on the brakes. I couldn't wait to get rid of him.

Overland from Argentina to Chile and Torres del Paine National Park

12/21/16

Because almost all flights to southern Patagonia originate in Buenos Aires, we, like everyone else, must ride overland almost 8 hours to get from point A to point B - of course with several stops along the way to break up the monotony.

Our first stop for coffee and banos (bathrooms) was in the extremely tiny town of Esperanza (hope). I decided to try a sub marino - a delicious hot chocolate made with steamed milk and a solid submarine-shaped chocolate bar.

We are on our way to Torres del Paine National Park, a 1978 UNESCO
designated World Biosphere Reserve, and one of the most remote, beautiful and unspoiled locations in the world. The rich and diverse landscape includes dramatic geological formations, different ecosystems, wind-bent grasses, waterfalls, rivers and the frozen cliffs of the Andes Mountains.

 To pass the time and to honor the border crossing from Argentina to Chile, 

Godi, our local guide holds up the Argentinian flag of his country, 

while Nicole waits to showcase the Chilean flag of her country.

Here is a great color-coded sign at the entrance to the Patagonia...
(we will be traveling from north to south - all the way to the Cape Horn). 

Across from the park entry sign is a shrine of sorts where travellers share food and drink in the hopes of a safe journey. Nicole poured a beer as we observed a moment of silence - shivering and trying not to be swept away by the nasty wind.

We had a moment of "learning and discovery" when we stopped the bus to interact with one of the local ranchers and his adorable 12-yr. old son.

Torres del Paine National Park tidbits:
approximately 935 square miles
part of Paine Massif - formed about 12 million years ago

The first of millions of photos of the iconic Paine Massif - the granite mountains capped with crumbly sedimentary rock that used to lie on the valley floor. The collision of the sedimentary rock and magma forced the rock upwards into huge towers of varying shapes up to 9000 feet. Some of these are covered in permanent ice.

The park glaciers are retreating at the rate of 56 feet a year over the last 90 years. There is plentiful flora and more than 40 species of mammals, and some of the rarest bird species.

And here is a video panoramic of the Paine Massif and surrounding area from another vantage point...

https://youtu.be/RBhwyzMTdAM

Perito Moreno Glacier

12/20/16 - Enjoying a full day Perito Moreno Glacier (the largest glacier in Argentina and the second in South America. A length of 70 km. from Vulcan Lautaro makes it the largest in South America).

A breakfast necessity at Kosten Aike Hotel:)

Today's Spanish lesson before departing..."one beer please"

Incredible landscapes and the glacier itself...

Our first WOW moment.

Pretty much the post hiking position...

Trying to share the incredible beauty and the power of frozen water, while hoping for a "calving" moment (when smaller chunks of ice fracture and break off from the glacier)...

https://youtu.be/h8IvNtcvFog

https://youtu.be/o94keCjkhj8

https://youtu.be/mx3iFA6HL9c

https://youtu.be/WmSbUn-Naec

My fellow traveller, Laurie Hurwitz, magically captured and generously shared this clip of the actual glacier halving...

https://youtu.be/4JWCOIQFnx8

Airline Strike - Can We Get to El Califate???

12/19/16

Today I was reminded why I could never be a trip leader...besides the fact that I have extremely low tolerance for people who ask questions just to hear themselves talk; despite those who talk while the guide is giving important information; despite those who are chronically late for departures; and despite overall obnoxious travelers...how could I possibly move 24 Americans - most of them totally useless with Spanish and totally clueless about the Buenos Aires domestic airport - to the highlight destination of their 24 -day trip, when their flight, along with all others, has been cancelled?

Well, our trusty trip leader, Nicole, and the OAT South American office, somehow pulled it off - with us departing 6 hours later. We didn't care that it was rainy and cold outside; we didn't care that the night we arrived we were eating dinner at 10 PM and going to bed at midnight. Are you kidding??? We just wanted to not spend another full day trying to get to the best part of the trip - the Patagonia, Torres del Paine, Estancia Fitz Roy, the Chilean fjords and Ushuaia.  You'll see why as you follow the next few days of my blog...

Late night dinner, lamb stew and 2 glasses of Malbec - a universal cure in my opinion:)

Buenos Aires Highlights

12/18/16

Our trusty leaders, Adrian and Nicole, review the itinerary for the day 

before we board the bus and head to Plaza de Mayo and Caminito.

 The Buenos Aires government building on Plaza de Mayo.

San Martin Cathedral.

Inside the Cathedral.

Heading to the Cathedral for the changing of the guard.

Our next neighborhood to explore was La Boca (soccer) - home to Caminito - or, in my humble opinion, Cuba. (ha ha). Also referred to as a "tango of wet cobbles and calico skies painted in many colors." Settled by many Italian immigrants, especially from Genoa, people built their houses on high sidewalks to avoid the frequent flooding. The houses here represent the neighborhood's typical tenement shacks, covered in corrugated zinc and originally brushed with leftover paint that Genoese port workers got from the ships. 

Caminito (or 'little path') was named after a 1926 tango song, which tells of a love lost. This song inspired Benito Quinquela Martín, La Boca's most famous artist, to help create Caminito in 1955. Everywhere there are canteens, cafes, paintings, photographs, handicrafts, as well as papier mache figures of famous Argentinians, such as Juan and Evita Perón, Che Guevara and soccer legend Diego Maradona, who wave down from several balconies. And don't forget Pope Francis:)

We ended our wonderful day with a home hosted dinner at Victoria's beautiful downtown home, which reminded me of a NY city walk-up apartment. It was built in 1957, had stunning herringbone flooring, impeccably polished wooden doors and an elevator that reminded me of the ones in Polsky's and O'Neils in downtown Akron, Ohio - with the foldable accordion door that had to be pulled across inside the elevator doors before the elevator would move. (3rd floor lingerie? women's shoes, anyone?)

Victoria was a single mom with 2 grown daughters - one studying law and the other business. She made us a delicious meatloaf and risotto, along with the gorgeous flan below.  We had a fantastic time sharing her home, and she was particularly grateful that we did not break any wine glasses as previous OAT guests had:)

Our host, Victoria, and her incredible flan.

Return to Buenos Aires

12/17/16

After our return to Arc Recoleta Hotel and a hilarious welcome briefing by Nicole, we were treated to a wonderful tango lesson.  We have some pretty awesome dancers in our group that looked great.

https://youtu.be/KQ61_hyWh90

https://youtu.be/c7zMBqUAB-E

https://youtu.be/6lEsuS5dnC8

https://youtu.be/TdQXx5VBxJc

https://youtu.be/O9SWGosPs60

https://youtu.be/VcQYp352zT0

https://youtu.be/Or8UASg52fU

https://youtu.be/0Fnk72POBYE

After working up an appetite dancing, the entire group - now 24 instead of 14 - headed to La Antigua Tasca de los Cuchilleros, where we had another Argentinian steak dinner. I haven't eaten this much beef in a long time and so late at night - I'll probably weigh at least 10 pounds more when I get home.

After dinner, we were treated to a dramatic presentation by Nicole and Maria about a tragic love story. Margarita, the daughter of Sergeant Oliden, a special police chief under Governor Juan Manuel de Rosas once lived here. The father wanted his daughter to marry Ciriaco Cuitiño, head of the special police. However, she escaped with an itinerant singer with whom she was in love, until they were found by Cuitiño in the town of Luján. He shot Margarita, who returned to her home to die.

Maria then took us down the stairway leading to the tunnel so we could check out some of the architectural artifacts discovered in a tunnel excavated below the restaurant. 

(Left to right) Maria unlocks the entrance to the tunnel; 

some of our group pose on the spiral steps leading down to the tunnel; 

a view looking up at the women's bathroom, where you can actually see the tunnel through the floor; and Maria showing us the incredible construction of the tunnel 

and some of the artifacts on display.

Iguassu Falls on the Argentinian Side

12/16/16

Today was an absolutely phenomenal day spent in Iguazu National Park on the Argentinian side of the falls. We got our tickets, hopped onto the park's train and rode to the last stop, Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) - to my way of thinking, the most incredible water confluence I have ever or will ever see. The Iguazu River is formed by head streams rising in Parana,Brazil and rises westward for about 750 miles across a plateau until it reaches a fault forming a crack in the interleaved layers of sandstone and basalt. There the river flows to a point where it suddenly leaps over a 250 foot canyon at Devil's Throat and roars and thunders down into the Parana River.  

Judge for yourself:

https://youtu.be/cK8Vbl2wjUc

https://youtu.be/xW5RnxWDYbw

https://youtu.be/gC2fq3iBRAM

https://youtu.be/IsIxGvFokFY 


Environmentally awesome ways to move millions of humans through the national park...

Animals spottings in the park...

Clockwise from left: South American Ano; toucan; baby coati. 

Salto Chico... Salto Bossetti... Salto Mbigua... Salto San Martin

https://youtu.be/HTXbVOcCmPQ

https://youtu.be/5YO82WYeQ9Q

https://youtu.be/zFJ-M83k1nE



https://youtu.be/Fwuzx-_1XL4

https://youtu.be/DDffjUmfYrs

https://youtu.be/cjCyS14BnP0

https://youtu.be/U2SRFUM7xoc





Thirteen of us were crazy enough to experience the Great Adventure optional trip, exploring both halves of Iguassu National Park - first by motorboat going through the Tres Mosqueteros and San Martin waterfalls, where we were absolutely drenched - and then by truck through the jungle Sendero Yacarartia trail. Here we are after the boat ride - glad to be alive (ha ha)

https://youtu.be/8sGJe0ieWOg

All cleaned up and sunburned after our fantastic day.

 Enjoying lots of alcohol (as you can see from all the glasses) 

and our first Argentinian beef of the trip 

(mine drowned in chimichurri sauce - I think the garlic is oozing from my pores).